Chemicals are a common control method to treat problematic plants, algae, disease, and insects in and around lakes and earthen bottom ponds. Most lakes and earthen bottom ponds at some point struggle with some of these nuisances. For the lake owner, knowing what causes these issues and how to choose the right chemical treatments to effectively act upon the problem, is a good first step to fixing issues.
While getting your lake cleaned up may be at the top of your todo list it's important that you familiarize yourself with local environmental laws and code. Your area may have restrictions in place on what kind of chemicals can be used in lakes within their jurisdiction. You may need a permit. Also, don't forget to take your beloved lake critters into consideration. Chemical treatments, either through misapplication or overuse, can and does have an affect on your lake ecosystem. You can kill your fish and turn the water toxic if you're not careful.
Be Safe
Ensure that all instructions are followed closely for any and all chemical treatments or additives to your lake. Human and wildlife safety precautions should be taken seriously by anyone handling and applying chemical treatments. Some treatments can be very hazardous regardless of concentration level. Be aware that toxicity can occur by touch or direct contact with the chemical and/or by inhalation of chemical fumes. Please read all product labelling and properly store chemical treatments in a safe non-hazardous location.
Lake Herbicides Herbicide lake treatments are used to control and inhibit the growth of plants in and around water. Common herbicides used in Lake and Pond chemical treatments include 2, 4-D, Flouridone, Glyphosate, Imazapyr & Diquat dibromide. Aquatic Herbicides come in selective and non-selective varieties. Some plants such as duckweed or watermeal may require selective lake herbicide formulas to properly treat. Herbicides can be toxic to the health of your pond, yourself, and surrounding flora if improperly applied. When correctly applied lake and pond herbicide treatments can be effective in controlling unwanted plants. |
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Lake Algaecides Algaecide lake treatments are utilized to control algae and algae blooms. Algae is most commonly the cause of green cloudy water or "pea soup" as some people call it. Other forms are filamentous or stringy algae and you commonly see this variety on streambed rocks and alongside the edgings of your lake. Other forms build up across the surface of the lake. Examples of chemicals used to treat algae are Copper Triethnolamine, Sodium Carbonate, and Copper Sulfate. Be aware that algae can be treated by other means rather than aquatic algaecides; examples being high filtering pond plants, lake aeration systems, and effective filtration. Algaecides disrupt the natural cellular processes of algae to kill it. Over use or misapplication can kill your pond fish and other critters; look to natural safe treatments for algae before resorting to harsher chemical treatments. Barley straw has been shown to reduce algae growth safely without harming the other elements of your pond. |
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Flocculants & Water Clarifiers Some Lake Water Clarifiers are flocculants designed to clump together suspended particles in your lake water. They help clear up cloudy water and in a pinch can be used to clear up cloudiness caused by algae (might not fix the problem though!). When the chemical clumps these particles together the clumps either get filtered out, eaten by aquatic wildlife, and sink to the bottom of the lake adding to the muck and decomposing material there. |
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Lake Dyes Lake dye treatments are intended to darken, colorize, and beautify lake water. On top of that lake dye adds shading across the pond to help prevent overgrowth of submersed aquatic plants like hornwort and increase water quality. Many lake dyes are safe for fish and the lake ecosystem and won't stain elements found there. |
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Lake Water Conditioners Water Conditioners for lakes and ponds can be beneficial to the health of the lake and any fish living in it. Conditioners are intended to emulate the natural aging of your pond as it develops into a balanced ecosystem. Lake water conditioners remove ammonia and chlorine, help replenish slime-coats on fish, and even help detoxify heavy metals in the water. |
Outdoor Yard Fountains:
Whether it is a statuary fountain, or a fountain made from pottery, the winterization process is very similar. Some concrete fountains may come equipped with a plug that makes draining the water out of it very simple. Those that do not, need to be pumped out or vacuumed out with a wet/dry vac (or a pond vacuum can be used).
Be sure that all debris and leaves are removed from your water feature. In some instances, it may not hurt to gently clean your fountain with a mild soap and water and rinse it. Make sure that there is not standing water inside or outside the fountain base. If there is it may freeze and cause damage to your piece. Old towels, or burlap bags can be placed inside the bowls or pots to absorb moisture.
Smaller bowls may be turned upside down to prevent accumulation. Fountain covers should be gently slipped over the fountain and tied at the bottom so it does not blow away. Keep the cover pulled tightly so that water or snow may not puddle on top.
Bubbling rocks (with a plastic basin):
Many bubbling rock water features are built with a rigid plastic water basin that is buried in the ground. The good news is you do not need to drain these. The water pressure inside the basin will help prevent any freezing and thawing of the ground around it from deforming and misshaping the plastic.
You will need to remove the pump for the winter. These basins are not deep enough to keep from freezing all the way around the pump which puts it at risk of cracking and breaking. Remove the pump and take it inside where it cannot freeze. We recommend storing it in a bucket, fully submerged in distilled water to prevent dry rot inside the pump.
For added measure, you may cover your boulder or rock fountain with a tarp that is weighed down to keep from blowing away. This will keep leaves and debris out of the stone for easier start up in the spring.
Pondless Water Features (with a rubber lined basin area):
Care should be taken to keep as much debris and leaves out of the rocks as possible. Covering the feature with a net in the fall will help immensely. Leaves and debris can be blown or vacuumed out in the spring, but the less that gets trapped in the rocks to decompose, the longer your pondless feature will stay clean and functioning at full capacity.
It is best to remove the pump for the winter and store it inside where it cannot freeze. Keep it submerged in a bucket of distilled water so that the gaskets inside the pump do not dry rot.
Which ever water feature you have, proper winter care will lead to an easier start up in the spring, viable warranties, and keep your water feature looking good as new.
]]>FISH BEHAVIORS
Flashing (flipping sideways to catch light)- usually indicates irritated skin. Could be parasites like flukes, anchor worm, or fish lice; possible off water chemistry
Piping (gasping for air at the water surface or under waterfall)- lack of oxygen from burned gills, poor water quality, or gill flukes
Rubbing (bumping against rocks)- usually indicates irritated skin. Could be parasites or off water chemistry; in some instances, may be spawning
Folded fins -general sign of stress from a variety of health issues.
Isolated -stress due to altered environment; temperature shifts, pH changes, chemical imbalances
Jumping- may happen during spawning, or high ammonia levels
Lethargic -ammonia poisoning, or extreme water temperature swings; lack of oxygen from high air and water temperatures during the summer.
Lying flat -ammonia poisoning; poor water quality
Tail up, Nose down -swim bladder
Nose up, Tail Down -swim bladder
Wobble while swimming- swim bladder
Belly up -swim bladder over-filled or stuck full of air
Spiral Swimming - swim bladder due to internal bacterial infection
Unable to stay sunken- swim bladder disease
SIGNS OF PROBLEM (SYMPTOMS)
Open wounds -ulcers from Aeromonas bacteria (external); poor water quality or nutrition.
Fringed tail or fins -fin rot; bacterial infection (external)
White cottony lips – “mouth fungus” actually a bacterial infection (external)
Bent Tail – could be bacterial (internal)
Emaciation -internal bacterial infection or internal parasites
White cottony film -fungus; usually a secondary infection to a previous ailment or injury
Distended abdomen- bloat from kidney failure; swollen or obstructed ducts that won’t release eggs
Extruded eyes – “pop eye” or Exophalmia -symptom of underlying conditions from physical injury, water chemistry, or organisms like bacteria, fungus, or parasites.
Protruding Scales – dropsy is a symptom of various unknown underlying causes
Red streaks -sure sign of serious water quality issues. High ammonia or nitrite can cause hemorrhaging
Dry skin- signs of high stress caused by outside sources such as predator scare, spawning, bullying, etc.
Cloudy eyes -caustic reactions to heavy metals or sudden change in water chemistry
Excessive mucus -parasitic disease, like fish lice or anchor worm, causing irritation of the skin.
White specks- Ich; a parasite easily treated with pond salt
Internal Bacterial Infections- Medicinal treatments are required; it is easier and less expensive to set up a hospital tank and treat infected fish separately than to treat the whole pond. Sometimes medicated food can be given, provided the fish is well enough to eat.
External Bacterial Infections- Melafix can be applied directly to the pond or in a hospital tank. Foaming does occur but will dissipate. Do not over dose. Be sure adequate aeration is present.
Fungus- May be treated with pond salt. Higher doses used for treatments may cause harm to aquatic plants. Removal is recommended before treatment. Pond salt testers are available.
Internal Parasites- Medicinal treatments are required. Sometimes medicated food can be given. Most parasites attack fish with low or weakened immunity. In some instances, it may be necessary to treat the entire pond, not just the infected fish.
External Parasites- some (but not all) parasites may be treated with higher doses of pond salt and then water changes. Several treatments may be required to eradicate different stages of life for the pest. Broad Spectrum Disease Treatment is available, 16 oz. treats up to 4,800 gals
Stress- Pond salt can be used as a routine maintenance to reduce stress. [Read Pond Salt Treatment: Learn the Benefits of using Salt in your Pond&91; Provide hiding places and adequate surface coverage on the pond with water lilies, lotus, water lettuce, and water hyacinth.
Water Quality- Testing for ammonia (which is heavier than water), pH, kH, general hardness, nitrites, and nitrates can help determine the true cause of stress. [read This is a Test…the Chemistry of Your Pond Water&91; Water changes may be necessary and/or filtration, plants or additives improved.
It is important to not jump to conclusions when your fish’s behavior changes or becomes erratic. Always test water quality before treating for any other diseases such as, bacterial infections or parasites. Over reacting to small changes can make them into large problems.
“The best defense is always a good offense.” Regular testing of your pond water will put you in the know before anything visually goes wrong in your pond.
There comes a time in the life of a pond when leaks happen. Whether it’s from an overlapped liner, roots pushing through, or a hole chewed from a rodent, it does not necessarily mean tearing everything out and starting over. Many patches and repairs can be made with a Seam Tape and Primer Kit.
Seaming Overlapped Liners in a Stream:
1. Ensure the liner is completely dry and free of mud and other debris.
a. Unleaded gasoline or rubbing alcohol is helpful for cleaning the liner of algae and calcium deposits before seaming.
2. Overlap the adjacent liners by a minimum of 4 inches.
a. Be sure the overlap allows water to flow over the seam like shingles on a roof.
3. Use a scrubber pad to apply primer to the top surfaces of the overlapped liners. Cover a minimum of 4 inches on both sides of the overlapped edge.
4. Allow the primer to become tacky. Test by touching the primed area with your finger. The primer should not string as you slide your finger across and away from the area.
5. Install the 6-inch seaming tape starting near you and moving away from your body. As you move forward, peel away the backing paper and hold it under your knee.
6. Use a roller to press the seam firmly together. Roll over the tape, along the seam as well as across the seam, to secure a good bond.
7. Examine the edges of the tape to be sure there are no bubbles or ruffled edges.
*It is always advisable to use one single piece of liner wherever possible to reduce the likelihood of leaks or liner separation.
Repairing Ruffled Edges or Gaps on a Seam or Patch:
1. Press firmly and squeeze the gap with your fingers, or attempt to roll the gap to the edge of the tape with the roller, or your palm.
2. If the gap forms a void all the way under the tape to the overlap’s edge; tape over and beyond the void with a separate patch.
a. Make sure to extend the tape and primer a minimum of 3 inches on all sides.
Removing a Bubble from a Tape Seam or Patch:
1. Attempt to press with your palm or roll the bubble out toward the edge of the tape.
2. If this is unsuccessful, put a small slice in the bubble to release the trapped air.
3. Cover the sliced hole with a separate patch, extending the tape and primer a minimum of 3 inches beyond the cut.
Patching a Hole in the Liner:
1. Be sure that the liner is clean and completely dry.
a. Unleaded gasoline is helpful for cleaning the liner of algae and calcium deposits before seaming.
2. Ensure that you have a flat surface to lay your patch.
a. Folds and wrinkles will not allow for a strong bond.
3. Cut your patch larger than the hole by a minimum of 3-4 inches on every side.
a. Rounded or diagonal corners are less likely to peel after application.
4. Use the scrubber pad to apply the primer to the liner; extending past the hole by a minimum of 4 inches all the way around.
5. Peel the backing from your patch and press the center of the patch over the hole and smooth the patch outward.
6. Roll the patch in all directions to secure a solid bond.
7. Ensure that there are no bubbles or ruffled edges.
*For best results, it is manufacturer recommended to let your patch or seam rest for 12 hours before running water over it.
]]>These are not the only plants that can cause trouble for your pond fish and water garden, but they are the ones that we have seen the most problems with. In need of pond netting, pond water test kits, or other pond accessories? Shop pond supplies online right here at waterxscapes.com.
]]>Sun Benefits:
Sun Negatives:
Shade Benefits:
Shade Negatives:
Being armed with this knowledge should help you decide which location is better for you to set up your water garden. No matter where you put it, be sure that it’s somewhere you will be able to enjoy it to it’s fullest.
Hoffman’s Water X Scapes has everything you will need to build your pond where you choose. Stop in and see us, or order your pond supplies online.
]]>If you have “city water” running from the tap in your home then it has been treated to be made “safe” for you to drink, cook, and wash with. But since we are discussing water gardening, how safe is the tap water for your pond fish?
Chlorine:
Chlorination is the process of adding chlorine to drinking water to kill parasites, bacteria, and viruses. All in all, this sounds like a good thing… however, putting your fish directly into chlorinated water is detrimental. Only a few short years ago, you could fill up your pond or fish tank with tap water and let it sit over-night. Within 24 hours, the chlorine would evaporate out of the water and it would be safe to add your new finned pets.
You can imagine how costly this process was for the water treatment plant. Keeping your drinking water safe was a constant battle since their purifying agent literally kept going up in the air.
Chloramine:
Soon they discovered that tying an ammonia ion to a chlorine molecule (chloramine) would hold the purifying agent in the water. Ammonia is heavier than water which is what makes it work. The problem for us pond enthusiasts now is, we can’t just let it sit to make it safe.
Heavy Metals:
If you find that you have well water, then heavy metals can be an issue. Copper, iron, lead, cadmium, nickel, and many more can be found in well water. Even in small amounts, these elements can be caustic to your pond fish and cause your ecosystem to crash.
In this instance, use a water conditioner that will detoxify heavy metals. The metals are bound together in the water and removed through the filters over time. Good aeration and water circulation are essential for a healthy pond.
Pond Water Conditioners:
There are several different types of water conditioners on the market now a days. So, make sure you are getting the proper one for your application. “City water” needs to be conditioned according to which treatment process is being used in your area. You can contact your municipality to find out if your tap water is being treated with chlorine or chloramine.
If chloramines are being used, be sure that the water conditioner you choose will break the bond between the ammonia and chlorine and will detoxify the ammonia. Too much ammonia built up in the bottom of your pond can cause string algae problems, or even burn your fish’s gills like smoke from a house fire can burn your lungs.
Some water conditioners may also have aloe or some other de-stressing agent for your fish in them. This, of course, is never a bad idea. Pond salt will also support the protective immune coating that makes your fish feel slimy but keeps them healthy. Add one cup of granulated pond salt for every one hundred gallons of water for good measure.
*Always be sure to follow the instructions on the water treatment you are using to make sure you are using the right dosage.
When to Add and How Much:
Your pond water only needs to be treated with a water conditioner when new water is being added. That could mean treating the full volume of your pond if you are doing an initial fill, or if you drained your pond empty and cleaned it.
If you do a partial water change or are topping off the pond after a leak or evaporation, then you only need to treat the amount of water that you are adding with a water conditioner. For example, if you have a pond that holds approximately 1,000 gallons and you do a 10% water change, then you are only adding about 100 gallons of new water. You would only need to add enough water conditioner to treat 100 gallons.
*Follow the recommendations for proper dosage on your products bottle.
Small actions make a big impact in a small pond. So, this is one area that you will want to pay close attention to. Keep your koi and other pond fish safe and happy with proper water treatments, water conditioners, and understanding the ecosystem you have created.
For more detailed information, check out these related blog articles:
]]>Getting Fresh Air:
Kids these days are all but trained to be inside glued to computers, tablets, phones, video games or television screens. While I’ll admit they can pick up a lot of knowledge watching videos, nothing replaces the value of a hands-on experience. Not to mention the health benefits of being outdoors.
Electronics in your home give off electromagnetic waves that literally attract dust particles and allergens, making you feel sluggish and sometimes under the weather. The splashing of your waterfall or fountain does just the opposite. Air around your water feature is actually cleaned by negative ions that attract particles out of the air and drop them to the ground, which promotes better moods and more energy.
Pond Inhabitants:
While playing around the pond, you can point out all the creatures of the animal kingdom who enjoy the water. Besides fish, there are birds, amphibians, crustaceans, insects, plants, and don’t forget the humans.
Older kids may enjoy looking at a sample of pond water or algae through a microscope to discover microbes and cells.
How it All Works Together:
The community of all these interacting organisms and their physical environment makes up an ecosystem. Keeping the ecosystem of your backyard pond in balance is how you achieve crystal clear water.
Achieving a good balance requires an understanding of the nitrogen cycle which happens within the pond water:
Use a water test kit to learn about pH.
So Much More to Learn:
With so many kids learning from home these days, why not show them how what they are learning is incorporated into the world around them. Maybe they will see that a little yard work can actually be fun!
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POND DYES - for lakes & large earthen bottom ponds
Using pond dyes for lakes is like putting sunglasses on your water’s surface. The dyes will protect your body of water from the UV rays of the sun that activate and promote the growth of submerged aquatic weeds and nuisance plant life. Pond dyes, by no means, are an aquatic herbicide, and will not kill plants already present in the pond. They are basically a type of concentrated, food grade colorant, which is what makes them harmless to fish and wildlife once diluted.
Dyes can be used year-round as a tool for part of your overall pond maintenance. Be mindful that for optimal pond health and water quality, there should be a balance of dissolved oxygen (aeration), plants, and other organisms (good bacteria and enzymes). Excessive nutrient load, invasive species, and excessive weed growth should be addressed separately for proper treatment and best control.
You can find pond dyes for lakes generally in three different colors: Natural Blue (for a “blue lagoon” look), Reflection (black, creates a mirrored effect), and Midnight (black and blue mix for the appearance of deeper waters).
*Pond Basic Pond Dyes are safe for fish, pets, wildlife, plants, and swimming once they are fully dispersed. Handle with care prior to dilution to prevent staining.
Visit our store online or in person at 1021 E. Caston Rd. Uniontown, Ohio, for all your pond and lake management needs.
]]>There are many textures, heights and colors that can be used to decorate the pond’s surface and soften the edges. But the question comes down to when should your pond plants be kept in pots and when should they be bare-rooted.
Let their Roots Show
Plants that are bare-rooted will take their nutrients straight from the water around them. This helps filter the pond water, keeping it clear, and greatly reducing the chances for a green water algae bloom.
Submersible plants, like Hornwort, will be “bare-rooted” once they have been bundled with a lead weight and tossed into the bottom.
Floating plants like Water Hyacinth and Water Lettuce will let their roots dangle underneath them as they float on the surface of the pond - or in your falls box.
Other bare-rooted plants, like some marginals, should be placed in a bog filter, and may be placed along the edges of the pond, tucked into stone for a natural look.
Although it may seem the more filtration the better, not all aquatic plants should be taken out of their pots.
Keep them in Their Pots
Water lilies are probably the biggest culprit. They will grow in every direction until they run out of room, and then they will grow on top of each other. The best way to keep them under control is to keep them potted. Since they are planted in aquatic soil, they will need to be fertilized in order to get big beautiful blooms. Learn more about fertilizing your water lilies here.
Much like a water lily, a lotus also needs to stay potted. A lotus grows along the inside edge of whichever container it is planted in. It is best to keep it in a round pot so that the growing tip does not get stuck in a corner and break itself off; which could kill the plant.
Some marginals are highly recommended to keep in pots because of their aggressive growing nature. Others need to be root bound (super crowded in a pot) before they will bloom. Check this list for which plants we strongly urge you to keep potted:
Regardless of how they are planted, your water plants will be both functional and beautiful in your pond. You can find related topics in our blog library; or follow the links below.
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