A good spring clean-out is not about stripping the pond down to nothing. It is about removing what winter left behind, protecting fish and plants, and setting the stage for clear water, better circulation, and a stronger ecosystem. The right approach now can help prevent algae problems, reduce stress on your filtration system, and keep your pond looking its best all season long.

Here are 10 helpful tips for cleaning out your pond in the spring after a hard winter.

1. Do the big clean-up early, while the water is still cool. A full clean-out is best done in early spring, ideally before pond water climbs above about 55°F, so you disturb the ecosystem less.
2. Removing leaves, twigs, and surface junk. Winter debris breaks down into nutrients that can fuel cloudy water and algae blooms later. A strong extendable pond net helps if you have a larger pond.
3. Only do a full drain-and-clean if the pond actually needs it. If the water is dark and there’s a thick layer of sludge on the bottom, do a full clean-out. If the water is mostly clear and debris is light, a lighter tidy-up is usually enough.  A pond vacuum can be extremely useful for this task, especially if muck is a yearly issue.
4. If you have fish, hold them safely in pond water while you work. Use a shaded holding tub or kiddie pool filled with pond water if available, cover it with netting, and avoid leaving fish there for more than several hours.  Alternatively if a holding pool is unavailable herd fish into a safe area of the pond as you reduce pond water.
5. Clean gently, not like you’re sterilizing a bathtub. Rinse rocks, gravel, and pond surfaces, but do not try to scrub away every bit of algae; some algae and biofilm support the pond’s ecosystem.
6. Clean the pump, skimmer, & filter(s)* before restart. Check pump intakes and remove debris from the skimmer and biological filter before turning everything back on. *Do not clean filter media with untreated tap water, preferably, use pond water to gently rinse off filter media to reduce washing out & killing off beneficial bacteria colonized in the filter media. See #5.
7. Inspect for winter damage before refilling fully. Look for cracks, worn fittings, shifted stones, and leaks in plumbing, stream, or waterfall areas. Spring is one of the best times to catch and fix leak problems caused by the freezing and thawing of winter.
8. Trim dead plant growth and divide overgrown hardy plants. Spring is a good time to cut back dead foliage, refresh edges, and divide or repot hardy pond plants. The lower water level will allow you to check submerged foliage, overgrown root systems of water lilies, etc...
9. Refill carefully. If you drained the pond and refill with garden-hose water, use a water conditioner or dechlorinator before returning fish; acclimate them gradually so the temperature change does not shock them.
10. Ease the pond back into the season. Monitor water temperature, add early-season beneficial bacteria in cold conditions, and resume feeding fish lightly; only once they’re consistently active as the water warms into roughly the 50–55°F range.

The goal is to remove winter waste and restart circulation without wiping out all the biology that helps the pond rebalance itself.  For a full pond cleaning guide check out our article How To Clean A Pond: The Complete Pond Cleaning Guide.

Tips For Visiting Ohio Waterfalls

• Check recent rainfall: Many falls are seasonal or have greatly reduced flow during dry spells. For best views, aim for spring or just after heavy rain.
• Go early or on weekdays: Popular spots (especially in Hocking Hills and Cuyahoga Valley) get crowded. Early morning gives better light and fewer people.
• Wear proper footwear: Trails around areas of consistent flowing water can be slippery; rocks especially near plunge pools or cascades may be mossy.
• Respect the environment: Stay on trails, avoid disturbing natural areas, and pack out what you pack in. Some sites may have fragile flora, caves, or wildlife. Don't be a litterbug!
• Accessibility considerations: Some cascades are easier to reach than others. Ash Cave, for instance, has a path that's more accessible. Others may require steep trails or stairs.

Brandywine Falls

Brandywine Falls, located in Cuyahoga Valley National Park between Cleveland and Akron, is one of Ohio’s most iconic waterfalls. Dropping approximately 60 to 65 feet over layers of Berea sandstone and shale, the falls create a dramatic, fan-like cascade that’s especially powerful after rainfall or during spring melt. The surrounding gorge and forested landscape make it a favorite year-round destination for both hikers and photographers. A short, accessible boardwalk leads to multiple viewing platforms, while the 1.5-mile Brandywine Gorge Trail offers a deeper exploration of the area’s natural beauty. In autumn, the vibrant foliage provides a stunning backdrop to the falls, making it one of the best photo spots in the park. Once home to a 19th-century milling village, the area still holds remnants of its historic past, adding a layer of intrigue to the natural wonder.

Location: Cuyahoga Valley National Park | Directions: Google Maps to Brandywine Falls

Brandywine Falls Photo by Blakelewis07

Cedar Falls

Cedar Falls, nestled within Hocking Hills State Park, is one of the most striking and heavily visited falls in Ohio. Despite its name, the falls are surrounded not by cedar trees but by towering hemlocks, which early settlers mistakenly identified. The waterfall plunges about 50 feet down a steep sandstone cliff into a rocky pool, creating a powerful, picturesque scene—especially after heavy rain. It's located along a scenic trail lined with massive rock formations, lush greenery, and narrow passageways, offering an immersive hike through some of the park’s most dramatic terrain. The easy-to-moderate trail to the falls is well-maintained and family-friendly, making Cedar Falls both accessible and rewarding for visitors of all ages.

Location: Hocking Hills State Park | Directions: Google Maps to Cedar Falls

Cedar Falls Photo by James St. John

Ash Cave Waterfall

Ash Cave Waterfall is one of the most breathtaking natural features in Hocking Hills State Park, known as much for its amazing setting, as for the waterfall itself. Cascading roughly 90 feet from the rim of a massive horseshoe-shaped sandstone recess cave, the water creates a delicate, misty veil that shimmers in the sunlight. The cave—Ohio’s largest recessed cave—spans nearly 700 feet wide and 100 feet deep, forming a natural amphitheater that amplifies the peaceful sound of falling water. While the waterfall’s flow varies with the seasons—ranging from a trickle in dry months to a stunning torrent after heavy rains—it remains a striking sight year-round. A flat, paved trail leads directly to the cave, making it highly accessible for wheelchairs and strollers, and ideal for visitors of all mobility levels.

Location: Hocking Hills State Park | Directions: Google Maps To Ash Cave

Ash Cave Photo by Always Shooting

Chagrin Falls

Chagrin Falls is a charming and picturesque water flow located in the heart of the village of Chagrin Falls, just east of Cleveland. The falls drop about 20 feet over a series of rocky ledges along the Chagrin River, right in the middle of the town’s historic district. Framed by old-fashioned storefronts, restaurants, and cozy cafes, the waterfall offers a rare blend of natural beauty and small-town charm. Easily accessible via public walkways and viewing platforms, it’s a favorite spot for both locals and visitors looking to enjoy a peaceful view, snap photos, or relax with ice cream from a nearby shop. While not as tall or remote as others, Chagrin Falls stands out for its unique setting—blending nature and community in a way that feels like stepping into a postcard.

Location: Chagrin Falls | Directions: Google Maps to Chagrin Falls

Chagrin Falls Photo by Erik Drost

Charlestons Falls Preserve

Charleston Falls Preserve, located near Tipp City in western Ohio, is a hidden gem featuring one of the region’s most scenic and accessible falls. The highlight of the 216-acre preserve is Charleston Falls, a striking 37-foot cascade that tumbles over a limestone cliff into a serene rock basin below. Often called the “Miniature Niagara” for its wide crest and powerful flow after rain, the falls are surrounded by lush woodlands and rugged rock formations. Over four miles of well-maintained trails wind through diverse habitats—including prairies, wetlands, and forests—offering excellent opportunities for hiking, birdwatching, and photography. With its natural beauty, peaceful atmosphere, and easy access, Charleston Falls Preserve is a favorite for both casual visitors and nature lovers looking to explore one of western Ohio’s best-kept secrets.

Location: Charlestone Falls Preserve | Directions: Google Maps to Charlestons Falls Preserve

Charlestons Falls Photo by Logan Rickert

Lyons Falls (Big & Little Lyons)

Big and Little Lyons Falls, located within Mohican State Park near Loudonville, Ohio, are two of the park's most scenic and well-loved natural features. Big Lyons Falls drops roughly 80 feet into a dramatic sandstone gorge, often forming a slender ribbon of water that flows through a recess cave before hitting the rocks below—especially striking after rainfall. Little Lyons Falls, though shorter at about 25–30 feet, offers a more secluded, tranquil setting, tucked into a wooded ravine just a short hike away. Both waterfalls are accessible via the Lyons Falls Trail, a moderate 2-mile loop that winds through dense forest, over footbridges, and past mossy rock outcrops, providing a peaceful and immersive nature experience. These falls showcase the raw beauty of central Ohio's landscape and are especially popular in spring and after heavy rain when the water flow is at its most dramatic.

Location: Mohican State Park | Directions: Google Maps to Little Lyons Falls

Lyons Falls Photo by Michael Knight

Great Falls of Tinker's Creek

The Great Falls of Tinkers Creek, located in Bedford Reservation within the Cleveland Metroparks system, is one of northeast Ohio’s most dramatic and historically rich waterfalls. This powerful cascade spans nearly 80 feet in width and drops about 15 to 20 feet over a rugged shale and sandstone ledge, creating a thunderous flow—especially after heavy rain. Once the site of an early 19th-century mill and power station, the area still features remnants of stone foundations, blending natural beauty with industrial history. Surrounded by steep gorges, dense forest, and scenic overlooks, the falls are accessible via a short, paved trail from the parking area, making it an easy but rewarding stop for hikers, photographers, and history enthusiasts alike. The Great Falls serve as both a natural spectacle and a reminder of the region's early reliance on water power.

Location: Cleveland Metroparks Bedford Reservation | Directions: Google Maps to Tinker's Creek Falls

Great Falls Photo by Tim Evanson

West Milton Cascades

West Milton Cascades, located near the town of West Milton in southwestern Ohio, is a charming and lesser-known waterfall that offers a peaceful retreat into nature. This cascading waterfall gently flows over a series of small rock ledges, creating a soothing, stepped effect rather than a single dramatic drop. Surrounded by lush greenery and shaded woodland, the cascades provide a tranquil setting perfect for a quiet hike or a reflective moment away from the bustle of everyday life. Though modest in size compared to some of Ohio’s larger waterfalls, West Milton Cascades’ serene beauty and accessibility make it a favorite among locals and nature lovers seeking a peaceful spot to connect with the outdoors.

Location: West Milton | Directions: Google Maps to West Milton Cascades

West Milton Cascades Photo by Matt Shiffler Photography

Buttermilk Falls

Buttermilk Falls, nestled near the outskirts of Cleveland in the Cuyahoga Valley area, is a charming and intimate waterfall known for its gentle cascade over smooth rock formations. Unlike taller, more dramatic falls, Buttermilk Falls offers a peaceful, ribbon-like flow that tumbles softly into a shallow pool surrounded by lush greenery and moss-covered stones. The falls are easily accessible via a short trail, making it a perfect spot for a quick nature escape or a quiet moment of reflection. Its understated beauty and secluded location make Buttermilk Falls a hidden gem for those looking to enjoy the soothing sounds and sights of flowing water away from the more crowded park areas.

Location: Cuyahoga Valley National Park | Directions: Google Maps to Buttermilk Falls

Buttermilk Falls Photo by Vince Reinhart

Cascade Park Falls

Cascade Park Falls, located in Elyria, Ohio, is a charming urban waterfall that adds a touch of natural beauty to the city’s historic park. The falls cascade gracefully over a series of rocky ledges into a peaceful pool below, creating a serene atmosphere amid well-maintained walking paths and lush landscaping. This easily accessible waterfall is a favorite spot for local families and visitors seeking a relaxing place to stroll, picnic, or enjoy a quiet moment in nature without leaving the city. The park’s blend of natural features and community space makes Cascade Park Falls a delightful oasis that highlights the unexpected presence of waterfalls in Ohio’s urban settings.

Location: Lorain County Cascade Park | Directions: Google Maps to Cascade Falls West

Create Your Own Waterfall!

If exploring Ohio’s scenic falls has you dreaming of your own backyard cascade, the good news is that creating a waterfall at home is entirely possible—even in a small space. Backyard waterfalls can be designed to suit a variety of styles, from natural, rock-lined streams to sleek, modern water walls. The basic concept is simple: water flows from a higher elevation to a lower basin, powered by a recirculating pump. With a bit of planning, you can build one yourself using materials like a pond liner, stacked stone, tubing, and a pump to keep the water moving.

To create a more natural feel, many people incorporate surrounding plants, moss, and lighting to blend the feature into the landscape. Whether it’s a bold focal point or a quiet corner trickle, a backyard waterfall adds soothing sound, visual interest, and a touch of the wild right outside your door. It’s a rewarding DIY project that brings the spirit of Ohio’s great outdoors home to stay.

Looking for something pondless? Check out How To Build a Pondless Waterfall!

Follow up with more waterfall building and Browse more artcles about Waterfalls!

Tip: Be careful. Everything in your pond is wet so its important to be aware that surfaces can be slippery, especially pond liner.

Keeping  your  Fish Safe: 

• How are your fish doing - behaving normally? Have you tested the water lately? Make sure there is no ammonia and that the pH is between 6 and 8.2. These are two of the most important readings to look at. Ammonia at any level starts to weaken your fish. A high pH with ammonia becomes exponentially toxic to fish. Also, what is the water temperature? The closer the water temperature is to 50 to 55 degrees, the less you have to worry about shocking/stressing your fish during re-acclimation. Fish are like people, too much stress and they are more susceptible to infections and parasites.
•  After ensuring that the water quality is  safe, water is drawn from the surface of the pond into stand-alone containers, such as trash cans, kitty pool or cattle trough. Make sure they are clean, no oils, no soaps and no other toxic substance to fish.. These containers will temporarily house your fish while cleaning your pond. Some of this stored pond water can also be used to wash and refill your pond. This will also help save some of the beneficial bacteria in your pond. If your pond water is clean and of good quality, (no ammonia, no nitrites or nitrates, good pH) the more you can save the better.
• Ammonia and many other toxins are heavier than water, therefor sink to the bottom. This is why the water should be taken from the surface first.
• Pump the water level down to where the fish are confined to a small space. This will prevent having to chase them all over the pond. Less stress on them, less stress on you.
• Once your containers are full, redirect the remaining pond water into the landscape away from the pond. You don’t want this water to run under your empty ponds liner.
• Gently catch your fish with a pond net and place them into the filled containers. If you have a lot of fish, spread them out amongst more than one container.
• If the cleaning will take more than a couple of hours, be sure to move your pond aerator into the tanks.
• Don’t forget to cover the tanks to keep the fish from jumping out onto the ground. And believe me, they will try.
• Also, be sure that the containers are not sitting in the full sun. Water temperature can change drastically and stress the fish.

Saving your Pond Plants:

• After all the fish have been moved, relocate the potted pond plants. 
• Place water lilies and oxygenating pond plants in the deeper water tanks. Marginal pond plants may be set on the ground, or in shallow tubs of water. 
  
  
• This is a great time to divide water lilies and marginals. 

Rinsing the Stone: 

• There should still be some water in the deeper areas of the pond. There should still be 6” to a foot of water.
• This water can be pumped through a hose to (you may need to buy an extra piece of hose – use your pond pump or get an extra pump) blast the sidewalls of your pond and the stream bed.This should loosen the muck and debris and wash it down to the bottom of the pond.
• When that water in the bottom becomes too dirty to do any good, just pump it into the landscape. The waste within the ‘dirty’ water is a fantastic fertilizer.
• If more rinsing is needed, your garden hose may be used, or some of your stored pond water.
• If it has been a few years since your last cleaning, you may need to repeat this process more than once or several times to get most of the muck out.
• We do not recommend “power washing” the inside of your pond - as it is believed to remove most of the beneficial bacteria that takes years to develop in your pond. You may think that getting every last speck of green algae off the rocks is a good idea and prevent it from growing back. Not so. It will come back.

Cleaning the Bottom of your Pond and Filters: 

Once all the stone in the upper levels of the pond have been rinsed to your satisfaction, use a Pond Vacuum with a Gravel Vacuum head (if you have gravel in the bottom of the pond) to suck out the bottom of the pond.

• It will be helpful to move stone around while rinsing to loosen debris and muck. You may need to add more water a couple of times.
• All pond filter media in the waterfall box and skimmer should be cleaned or replaced at this time. Don’t forget to vacuum out these filters, particularly the waterfall box or FilterFalls.
• If you are using lava rock inside of your filter media bags, we recommend replacing it every year to maintain quality of filtration, or switch to using Bio cubes, which are much lighter and reusable.
• If for some reason you are cleaning during mid-season, ONLY use the pond water to rinse the biological pond filter. Temperature differences between the pond water and the water from the garden hose will kill the beneficial bacteria that has already been established. Chlorinated water will also kill the bacteria.

Returning your Fish and Plants to your Pond:

• Use your pump to transfer water from the holding containers back into the pond.
• Once there is enough water in the pond, to at least cover the backs of the fish, they may be re-introduced to the pond. Read “How to Acclimate Koi and Other Fish to Your Pond” for the steps.
• Pump the remaining water from the containers back into the pond.
• Extra water will be needed from your garden hose to finish filling the pond.
• Add water slowly as to not change the water temperatures too quickly. You may need to add water over several hours.
• Add water treatments such as, Pond Basics Water Conditioner or Microbe-Lift's Dechlorinator Plus, as well as a dose of beneficial bacteria like Pond Basics Pond Starter Dry Bacteria.
• Pond plants may be put back in the pond at any time during this step. Sometimes it’s easier to get the water lilies back to their final resting spots before the pond is completely full.
• Get the number of Hornwort up to the recommended rate as soon as possible to slow or prevent algae growth. Cleaning your pond will upset the balance in your pond for a little while, but adding the water treatments and plants will re-establish it’s balance quickly.

Now your pond is clean and you are ready to enjoy the season!

Let's dive in and learn more about these types of backyard pond filtration!

Biological Filtration

Biological Filtration is the action of good bacteria built up in the filtration system to break down, or oxidize, the fish waste, which is primarily ammonia. This allows the ammonia, that is suspended in the water, to be converted into less toxic forms of nitrogen. Ammonia can be very lethal in a koi or goldfish pond.

A Biological Filter is basically a container or area where we place a material or media that has a lot of surface area, such as lava rock, filter pads, BioCubes, gravel, etc. Bacteria will attach itself to the media and multiply if there are enough nutrients, temperatures are warm enough (50 to 55 degrees) and there is enough oxygen. Then we pump/circulate the pond water through the container or area over and over again. This process of biological filtration, also illustrated as part of the Nitrogen Cycle (see diagram), involves several different types or strains of bacteria.

Certain strains of bacteria break down ammonia into Nitrites, which is less toxic than ammonia. Other strains of bacteria break down nitrites converting them into Nitrates. And yet, a multitude of other strains of bacteria and enzymes break down organic matter like leaves and plant debris.

Pond Filters For Biological Filtration

• FilterFalls box
• Bio-Tec ScreenMatic
• Filtoclear Pressurized Filter
• Lava Rock Filter for small ponds and features
• Bog Filter 
• Filter Media Varieties (The more surface area the better. Follow manufacturer recommendations for color and density)
  • White, Green, Black, Lime colored filter mat
  • Matala Filter Material in black, green, blue, or gray
  • Bio-cubes in a media bag
  • Lava Rock

Seeding your pond with beneficial bacteria is easy with additives such as:

• Nitrifying Bacteria Plus - add weekly for 4 weeks in Spring when pond water temperature reaches 55F.
• Pond Starter Dry Bacteria - add weekly, bi-weekly, or monthly to maintain the full potential of your biological filter.  Some manufacturers may suggest adding additives monthly, but in our opinion, making it a weekly habit reduces the risk of forgetting to add it at the "right time."  Split your monthly dose into weekly sizes.
• Fall & Spring Pond Treatment - add regularly during the fall and spring when water temperatures are still cool. 
• Sludge & Muck B-Gone - add regularly to reduce sludge and debris at the bottom of the pond.
• You may also be interested in an Automated Dosing System.  These automatically apply additives to your pond water for you; exchanging the regular routine of adding treatments to simply changing the pouch or bottle when it's empty!

Tech Tip: Biological filters (the physical media containing benefical bacteria) should generally be cleaned only one time per year. It takes 15 to 60 days for the filter to cycle or in other words, to mature completely. Cleaning this filter can destroy the biological filtering ability. If cleaning is absolutely needed due to some unforeseen problem or accident, use pond water only and be careful not to destroy all of the bacteria. After cleaning, you may want to re-seed with Nitrifying Bacteria Plus.

Mechanical Filtration 

Mechanical Filtration is the action of removing suspended particles and undissolved organics like leaves, debris, algae and other solids that may get into your pond water from the wind and rain. Mechanical Filtration catches this debris before it is pulled into the pump and clogs it. Make sure to clean the mechanical filter on a regular basis. Depending on the time of the year and the environment in and around the pond, cleaning the filter monthly may be enough during late summer. In the spring, with a flowering tree nearby, you may need to clean the mechanical filter daily.

• Mechanical filters can be a pre-filter cage or sponge on the intake of the pump, a  lava rock filter at the bottom of the pond that houses a pump, a pump bag (pump defender) or a pond skimmer. 

• Mechanical filter media can consist of a screen, a net or a filter mat that collects the debris as the pond water is pulled through it by the pump. The Filter Mat and Matala Filter Material come in different densities. Some have a more open weave to allow smaller particles to flow through them which allows for cleaning less often. The denser filter materials such as the lime green Filter Mat and the Grey Matala Filter Material are very tight woven and should be checked and cleaned daily if you have a lot of suspended particles in the pond water.

• Some mechanical filters are part of the biological filters, such as Pressurized filters* and ScreenMatic*. These filters will pull out smaller debris and need to be back flushed regularly. The pumps used with these filters generally still need a mechanical filter to catch larger particles.

Tech Tip: Some filters function both mechanically and biologically. In smaller ponds, a lava rock or pump defender filter will provide both types of filtration. When cleaning leaves and debris from these filters, use pond water, not chlorinated water, and do not let them dry out. Remember to use care not to destroy the good beneficial bacteria growing on them. After cleaning, you may want to re-seed with nitrifying bacteria.

Plant Filtration

Plant Filtration is essentially the use of Aquatic Plants to absorb or use ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and other substances as food. Some Aquatic Plants also assist in the removal or neutralization of toxins in the water. Aquatics plants are generally broken in several groups. Each group having many varieties. Some varieties are very invasive and have been prohibited from sale in Ohio. The latest to be banned is Water Lettuce (Pistia stratiotes).

• While some plants like hornwort (seaweed type plant) are sunk to the bottom with weights, some pond plants sit on ledges in shallow water, while others float on the surface with its roots dangling just below. 
• A bog garden is a prime example of natural filtration. Read the “Benefits of a Bog” to learn more.
• Just like the different types of filtration, there are different types of aquatic plants that share the responsibility of keeping your pond water clean, clear and healthy.
  • Submersible pond plants such as Hornwort consumes nutrients and toxic waste from the bottom of the pond. This plant is weighted so it stays on the bottom of pond. As water flows around this plant, it acts like a magnet attracting suspended nutrients and particles. This plant is considered hardy in our area but does not always survive winter.
  • Marginal pond plants are found in nature along the edges of lakes and streams. Some varieties will grow in water up to 8” to 12” deep. Other varieties only like there roots in the water. There are many hardy varieties such as many forms of Irises, a couple species of For-get-me Nots, etc., etc. The more circulation of the pond water through and around the root system of these plants the better job they can do. It should be noted that there are both tropical and hardy marginal pond plants, so check the tag.
  • Floating pond plants such as Water Hyacinth helps to reduce ammonia and phosphates suspended in the water. Water Hyacinth are tropical and will not survive a typical winter in Ohio.
  • Water Lilies and Lotus do a great job of shading your pond and keeping it cooler. It can also help protect your fish from predators such as heron and hawks. But probably the biggest reason I see for having water lilies and maybe a lotus is the beauty that they add to the pond!  Lilies and lotus come in many varieties, colors and sizes. There are hardy and tropical varieties. There reds, yellows, pinks, lavenders, blues, color changing and more.

NOTICE: Never dispose of or release pond plants or pond fish into natural lake bodies, canals, or waterways as their introduction can potentially cause environmental damage.

The combination of these filter that are sized and maintained properly, with the adequate number of plants has produced fantastic results. Happy Pondering!!!

So What Is Montmorillonite Clay?

Montmorillonite is a type of phyllosilicate mineral (sheet silicates, layer silicates) that belongs to the smectite group; a collection of clay minerals that swell when coming into contact with water.  It's characterized by its fine grain structure and high surface area that allows it to absorb and retain large amounts of water or other substances. It's rich in essential minerals such as calcium, magnesium, potassium, and trace elements, which contribute to its beneficial effects. It's also known for its ability to attract, hold, and exchange positively charged ions such as calcium, magnesium, and potassium; making montmorillonite clay an excellent soil conditioner.  Bentonite or Bentonite clay for example, is largely composed of montmorillonite.

Uses of Montmorillonite Clay

In agriculture and gardening, montmorillonite clays are used as a soil amendment that improves soil structure and water retention while promoting vital nutrient exchange to plants.  In environmental management, the clay mineral is used to absorb and immobilize heavy metals and other soil or water contaminates. Montmorillonite clays high absorbtion capacity makes it an effective agent for cleaning up polluted sites. It's also used in animal feeds to improve digestion, enhance nutrient absorbtion, and reduce potential digestive disorders.

Montmorillonite clay offers several benefits that contribute to the overall health and balance of aquatic ecosystems like koi ponds.  One distinct effect of using montmorillonite clay in a pond is its ability to polish the water and improve clarity.  The clay particles act as a natural flocculant binding to suspended particles and then sinking to the bottom (a process called flocculation).  Another key benefit is nutrient management.  Montmorillonite helps manage nutrient levels by binding to phosphates and nitrates which will lead to algae blooms at high levels. By helping reduce nutrient availability in pond water montmorillonite helps in controlling algal growth.

Other benefits of montmorillonite clay include:

• Detoxification: Assists in neutralizing harmful substances such as heavy metals, ammonia, and other toxins that may be present in pond water.
• Mineral Supplementation: Montmorillonite clay is rich in essential minerals beneficial for fish health, When added to ponds it creates a natural source of minerals that support fish growth, color, immune function, bone & scale strength, and overall well-being.
• pH Stabilization: Assists in stabilizing the pH of pond water.  It acts as a buffer preventing sudden fluctuations in pH that can stress pond fish and other aquatic life.  Stable pH is critical in maintaining a healthy pond.

At first its surprising just how many pond products on the market contain montmorillonite clays but after considering the benefits and versatility of the mineral it makes total sense. You can find this stuff in beneficial bacteria additives, fish health supplements and foods, water clarifiers, sludge reducers, aquatic soils/planting media, and more.  While being present in so many different products it can also be used directly!

Montmorillonite clay is a safe and environmentally friendly solution for pond management. Unlike chemical treatments, it doesn't introduce harmful substances into the ecosystem and is safe for fish, plants, and other pond inhabitants. Its ability to enhance water clarity, manage nutrients, detoxify the water, and provide mineral supplementation makes it a very valuable tool for maintaining balanced and thriving aquatic ecosystems.

Pond vacuums (also known as pondvacs) draw in pond muck water and discharge it away from the water garden eliminating the need to fully drain the water to remove the problematic sludge from the bottom.

How do I use a pond vacuum cleaner?

The process for vacuuming a pond may vary based on the pond vacuum being used. Most pond vacs have a suction hose used for suctioning up muck, debris, and water, and a discharge hose that empties the dirty material and water out of the vacuum.

Start by using a pond debris net to capture and remove larger material in and around the water garden. It's important to remove any larger materials to prevent blockages. Place the discharge hose away from the pond, preferably sloping away. You can even position the discharge hose to dispense into garden beds or other landscaping as the muck can be used as a fertilizer for other plants!  If needed, use a mesh net bag or similar netting to capture large debris (like leaves) passed through the vacuum.

Next, place the suction hose underwater; positioning it at the bottom where you will begin to vacuum. Turn the vacuum on and move the suction intake across the bottom of the water garden in a slow and steady motion.  Do not press hard against the bottom or force the suction hose into difficult areas. Moving slow will reduce the potential for disrupting settled muck and causing cloudiness. If the water garden has a pebble/gravel bottom use an gravel vacuum head to avoid suctioning the gravel and/or adjust the suction intensity.

Once vacuuming is complete, ensure the vaccum collection tank is empty. Rinse out the collection tank and other pond vacuum components such as the hoses, filters, and attachments with clean water. Lastly, check the ponds water level and add fresh water as necessary.

Are pondvacs safe for fish ponds?

Pond vacuums are designed with aquatic wildlife in mind and typically offer a variety of nozzle fittings that can help avoid accidentally harming fish or plants.  However, it is up to the pond owner, or caretaker to be mindful of animals and plants in the pond. Fish are typically skittish animals to begin with and generally will avoid getting close to foreign objects moving around in the water. Avoid using a pond vacuum where fish are breeding or being spawned as fish eggs and fry can be easily vacuumed.  Also, avoid using the vacuum near pond plants that require a substrate to grow, as the vacuum may inadvertently suck up the growing media.

Can I use my Wet/Dry vac to clean my pond?

Standard wet/dry vacuums are not designed for this kind of job. That's not to say you can't use one though. Here are a few reasons why you may not want to use a standard wet/dry vacuum for your pond:

• A shop vac may not be rated or tested for continuous submerged use; potentially resulting in damage to the vacuum or the pond.
• Shop vacs may not have any intensity control resulting in the vacuum suctioning up everything in its path including gravel, fish, plants, or potentially damaging the pond liner.
• Most wet/dry vacs don't have sufficient discharging capabilities, requiring the user to physically empty the collection tank when full. Constantly moving and emptying a shop vac can be a physically demanding activity; particularly when water is involved. Pond vacs save backs.
• Using the shop vacuum in a way it wasn't designed for could void any warranty on the vacuum.

Dedicated pond vacs aren't just designed for use within aquatic ecosystems they're designed to make the task of removing pond muck easier and safer; they're far more suitable for maintaining water gardens than your typical wet/dry vacuum.

How frequently should I use a pond vacuum?

To prevent debris build-up and maintain a healthy pond vacuuming can be completed as frequently as every few weeks. Not all ponds accumulate muck and debris at the same rate. Some ponds may get very little blown-in debris or may not have any fish contributing to waste build up, while other ponds may get loads of leaves falling in or may have a big population of fish. In order to nail down exactly how often you should vacuum your pond pay attention to how fast muck and debris accumulates over the course of several weeks.

How can I reduce pond muck buildup?

While you can take several different steps to reduce pond muck buildup it should be noted that there is no way to effectively eliminate it from happening in outdoor ponds. Here a several tips that can help reduce pond muck, but is not an exhaustive list:

• Remove floating and submerged debris such as leaves, sticks, or other material blown or dropped into the pond.
• Pay attention to fish feeding and don't over feed. Remove any excess, uneaten, fish food from the pond after feeding. Fish food contains a lot of nutrients and when it decays significantly adds nutrients to the water encouraging algae to bloom.
• Remove existing algae when possible. When algae dies, it decays and sinks like everything else contributing to bottom sludge.

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Chemicals are a common control method to treat problematic plants, algae, disease, and insects in or around lakes and earthen bottom ponds.  Most lakes and earthen bottom ponds at some point struggle with some of these nuisances.  For the lake owner, knowing what causes these issues and how to choose the right chemical treatments to effectively act upon the problem, is a good first step to fixing issues.

While getting your lake cleaned up may be at the top of your todo list it's important that you familiarize yourself with local environmental laws and code.  Your area may have restrictions in place on what kind of chemicals can be used in lakes within their jurisdiction.  You may need a permit.  Also, don't forget to take your beloved lake critters into consideration.  Chemical treatments, either through misapplication or overuse, can and does have an affect on your lake ecosystem.  You can kill your fish and turn the water toxic if you're not careful.

Be Safe

Ensure that all instructions are followed closely for any and all chemical treatments or additives to your lake.  Human and wildlife safety precautions should be taken seriously by anyone handling and applying chemical treatments.  Some treatments can be very hazardous regardless of concentration level.  Be aware that toxicity can occur by touch or direct contact with the chemical and/or by inhalation of chemical fumes.  Please read all product labelling and properly store chemical treatments in a safe non-hazardous location.

Lake Herbicides Herbicide lake treatments are used to control and inhibit the growth of plants in and around water.  Common herbicides used in Lake and Pond chemical treatments include 2, 4-D, Flouridone, Glyphosate, Imazapyr & Diquat dibromide.  Aquatic Herbicides come in selective and non-selective varieties. Some plants such as duckweed or watermeal may require selective lake herbicide formulas to properly treat.  Herbicides can be toxic to the health of your lake, yourself, and surrounding flora if improperly applied.  When correctly applied lake and pond herbicide treatments can be effective in controlling unwanted plants.
Lake Algaecides Algaecide lake treatments are utilized to control algae and algae blooms.  Algae is most commonly the cause of green cloudy water or "pea soup" as some people call it.  Other forms are filamentous or "stringy" algae and you commonly see this variety on streambed rocks and alongside the edgings of your lake.  Other forms build up across the lakes surface.  Examples of chemicals used to treat algae are Copper Triethnolamine, Sodium Carbonate, and Copper Sulfate.  Be aware that algae can be treated by other means rather than aquatic algaecides; examples being high filtering plants, lake aeration systems, and effective filtration (e.g. a bog filter).  Algaecides disrupt the natural cellular processes of algae to kill it. Over use or misapplication can kill fish and other organisms; look to natural safe treatments for algae before resorting to harsher chemical treatments.  Barley straw has been shown to reduce algae growth safely without harming the other elements of your aquatic ecosystem.
Flocculants & Water Clarifiers Some Lake Water Clarifiers are flocculants designed to clump together suspended particles in your lake water.  They help clear up cloudy water and in a pinch can be used to clear up cloudiness caused by algae (might not fix the problem though!).  When the chemical clumps these particles together the clumps either get filtered out, eaten by aquatic wildlife, and sink to the bottom of the lake adding to the muck and decomposing material there.
Lake Dyes Lake dye treatments are intended to darken, colorize, and beautify lake water.  On top of that lake dye adds shading across the pond to help prevent overgrowth of submersed aquatic plants like hornwort and increase water quality.  Many lake dyes are safe for fish and the lake ecosystem and won't stain elements found there.
Lake Water Conditioners Water Conditioners for lakes and ponds can be beneficial to the health of the lake and any fish living in it.  Conditioners are intended to emulate the natural aging of your pond as it develops into a balanced ecosystem.  Lake water conditioners remove ammonia and chlorine, help replenish slime-coats on fish, and even help detoxify heavy metals in the water.

Outdoor Yard Fountains:

Whether it is a statuary fountain, or a fountain made from pottery, the winterization process is very similar. Some concrete fountains may come equipped with a plug that makes draining the water out of it very simple. Those that do not, need to be pumped out or vacuumed out with a wet/dry vac (or a pond vacuum can be used).

Be sure that all debris and leaves are removed from your water feature. In some instances, it may not hurt to gently clean your fountain with a mild soap and water and rinse it. Make sure that there is not standing water inside or outside the fountain base. If there is it may freeze and cause damage to your piece. Old towels, or burlap bags can be placed inside the bowls or pots to absorb moisture.

Smaller bowls may be turned upside down to prevent accumulation. Fountain covers should be gently slipped over the fountain and tied at the bottom so it does not blow away. Keep the cover pulled tightly so that water or snow may not puddle on top.

Bubbling rocks (with a plastic basin):

Many bubbling rock water features are built with a rigid plastic water basin that is buried in the ground. The good news is you do not need to drain these. The water pressure inside the basin will help prevent any freezing and thawing of the ground around it from deforming and misshaping the plastic.

You will need to remove the pump for the winter. These basins are not deep enough to keep from freezing all the way around the pump which puts it at risk of cracking and breaking. Remove the pump and take it inside where it cannot freeze. We recommend storing it in a bucket, fully submerged in distilled water to prevent dry rot inside the pump.

For added measure, you may cover your boulder or rock fountain with a tarp that is weighed down to keep from blowing away. This will keep leaves and debris out of the stone for easier start up in the spring.

Pondless Water Features (with a rubber lined basin area):

Care should be taken to keep as much debris and leaves out of the rocks as possible. Covering the feature with a net in the fall will help immensely. Leaves and debris can be blown or vacuumed out in the spring, but the less that gets trapped in the rocks to decompose, the longer your pondless feature will stay clean and functioning at full capacity.

It is best to remove the pump for the winter and store it inside where it cannot freeze. Keep it submerged in a bucket of distilled water so that the gaskets inside the pump do not dry rot.

Which ever water feature you have, proper winter care will lead to an easier start up in the spring, viable warranties, and keep your water feature looking good as new. 

FISH BEHAVIORS

Flashing (flipping sideways to catch light)- usually indicates irritated skin. Could be parasites like flukes, anchor worm, or fish lice; possible off water chemistry

Piping (gasping for air at the water surface or under waterfall)- lack of oxygen from burned gills, poor water quality, or gill flukes

Rubbing (bumping against rocks)- usually indicates irritated skin. Could be parasites or off water chemistry; in some instances, may be spawning

Folded fins -general sign of stress from a variety of health issues.

Isolated -stress due to altered environment; temperature shifts, pH changes, chemical imbalances

Jumping- may happen during spawning, or high ammonia levels

Lethargic -ammonia poisoning, or extreme water temperature swings; lack of oxygen from high air and water temperatures during the summer.

Lying flat -ammonia poisoning; poor water quality

Tail up, Nose down -swim bladder

Nose up, Tail Down -swim bladder

Wobble while swimming- swim bladder

Belly up -swim bladder over-filled or stuck full of air

Spiral Swimming - swim bladder due to internal bacterial infection

Unable to stay sunken- swim bladder disease

SIGNS OF PROBLEM (SYMPTOMS)

Open wounds -ulcers from Aeromonas bacteria (external); poor water quality or nutrition.

Fringed tail or fins -fin rot; bacterial infection (external)

White cottony lips – “mouth fungus” actually a bacterial infection (external)

Bent Tail – could be bacterial (internal)

Emaciation -internal bacterial infection or internal parasites

White cottony film -fungus; usually a secondary infection to a previous ailment or injury

Distended abdomen- bloat from kidney failure; swollen or obstructed ducts that won’t release eggs

Extruded eyes – “pop eye” or Exophalmia -symptom of underlying conditions from physical injury, water chemistry, or organisms like bacteria, fungus, or parasites.

Protruding Scales – dropsy is a symptom of various unknown underlying causes

Red streaks -sure sign of serious water quality issues. High ammonia or nitrite can cause hemorrhaging

Dry skin- signs of high stress caused by outside sources such as predator scare, spawning, bullying, etc.

Cloudy eyes -caustic reactions to heavy metals or sudden change in water chemistry

Excessive mucus -parasitic disease, like fish lice or anchor worm, causing irritation of the skin.

White specks- Ich; a parasite easily treated with pond salt

Internal Bacterial Infections- Medicinal treatments are required; it is easier and less expensive to set up a hospital tank and treat infected fish separately than to treat the whole pond. Sometimes medicated food can be given, provided the fish is well enough to eat.

External Bacterial Infections- Melafix can be applied directly to the pond or in a hospital tank. Foaming does occur but will dissipate. Do not over dose. Be sure adequate aeration is present.

Fungus- May be treated with pond salt. Higher doses used for treatments may cause harm to aquatic plants. Removal is recommended before treatment. Pond salt testers are available.

Internal Parasites- Medicinal treatments are required. Sometimes medicated food can be given. Most parasites attack fish with low or weakened immunity. In some instances, it may be necessary to treat the entire pond, not just the infected fish.

External Parasites- some (but not all) parasites may be treated with higher doses of pond salt and then water changes. Several treatments may be required to eradicate different stages of life for the pest. Broad Spectrum Disease Treatment is available, 16 oz. treats up to 4,800 gals

Stress- Pond salt can be used as a routine maintenance to reduce stress. [Read Pond Salt Treatment: Learn the Benefits of using Salt in your Pond&91; Provide hiding places and adequate surface coverage on the pond with water lilies, lotus, water lettuce, and water hyacinth.

Water Quality- Testing for ammonia (which is heavier than water), pH, kH, general hardness, nitrites, and nitrates can help determine the true cause of stress. [read This is a Test…the Chemistry of Your Pond Water&91; Water changes may be necessary and/or filtration, plants or additives improved.

It is important to not jump to conclusions when your fish’s behavior changes or becomes erratic. Always test water quality before treating for any other diseases such as, bacterial infections or parasites. Over reacting to small changes can make them into large problems.

“The best defense is always a good offense.” Regular testing of your pond water will put you in the know before anything visually goes wrong in your pond.

One effective way to maintain the health of your pond fish and prevent common issues is by using products that promote a balanced ecosystem. TheraP, for instance, is specially formulated to promote pond fish health. This product helps in improving water quality, reducing fish stress, and enhancing the overall vitality of your aquatic pets. By incorporating TheraP into your regular pond maintenance routine, you can ensure a healthier and more vibrant pond environment for your fish.

View Our Diagnosing & Treating Sick Pond Fish Chart